A Traveler's Quick Guide to Amritsar

Pooja Kothari
Mar 13, 2022
4 min read

Another year into the pandemic and the work stress just piling up each day - a getaway was greatly needed. After months of ‘let’s plan a holiday’ discussions, I finally closed my bookings for the much-awaited end of the year trip to Amritsar and Dalhousie.

The trip was originally planned for 7 days & 3 destinations, which was eventually reduced to 4 days & 2 destinations to accommodate conflicting work schedules.

After a flight delay and resolving the mystery of a missing bag, we finally made it into the city of Amritsar.

Amritsar welcomed us with chilly air & roads with greenery on either side.

The city has always been on my bucket list mainly for 2 reasons - The Golden Temple & The Attari Border. And so, it goes without saying those are the two places I visited first.

If I have to describe my experience in one word then I’d just say peaceful. The vibe here is calm, pious. I could have just sat there gazing at the Gurdwara for hours, lost in its tranquillity.

While the morning time is peaceful, the night view makes it look more glorious.

Plan your visit either early in the morning or later at night to avoid long queues to enter the Gurudwara. It is mandatory to cover your head within the premises, you can carry your own dupatta/scarf and you will also get one at the entry to use.

Don’t leave the premises without experiencing Langar - a community kitchen that provides free meals to all without discrimination. You can volunteer to serve food at Langar as well.

The Attari-Wagah border is a geographical border between the countries India & Pakistan - Attari is on the Indian side while Wagah is in Pakistan. Apart from marking a border between the two nations, the place is quite famous for its ‘Beating the Retreat Ceremony’ where forces from both countries display military camaraderie.

It may sound a bit cliché, but after being terribly late & almost running towards the main ceremony area I was welcomed by an Indian flag being waved at my face by a vendor. I stepped into an ambience filled with high energy & patriotism - a fervourous crowd dancing to famous patriotic songs and cheering for India. The aura here was something else! Almost at par with an Indian cricket match stadium if I daresay.

The soldiers at both ends performed the routine in such sync and vigour, it was fascinating to witness this flawless coordination despite the historic rivalry between the two nations. It is a 'must-do' experience in Amritsar.

Do try the chaat outside, it’s mouth-watering!

India has a rich history of the freedom movement and among one of the most tragic chapters is the Jallianwala Bagh massacre in April 1919.

British General Dyer ordered his troops to open fire relentlessly at the unarmed men, women and children gathered at the Bagh (garden) for a peaceful protest. Over 1500 were killed and several injured. The soldiers came unannounced and blocked the exit resulting in many protesters jumping in the nearby well to save themselves from the bullets.

The bullet marks are kept intact and the well is now cleaned and preserved. The place is now restored and a memorial is built in honour of the martyrs of the incident.

To date, the Jallianwala Bagh massacre aches Indian hearts.

Amritsar has the ability to awaken the lost shopaholic soul & satisfy that hungry food monster.

The road to the Golden Temple is a big market with various shops, dhabbas/restaurants & street food vendors - a perfect place to halt for souvenirs or indulge in local delicacies after a tiring day.

The market reflects the beautiful architecture of the old Amritsar, and there are also a few touristy locations within walking distance. The market looked pretty at night with street lights.

You can explore the wholesale market for better quality products. I realised the shopkeepers do not bargain with tourists hence having local support for shopping can be helpful.

A good spot to experience the traditional lifestyle of a Punjabi household is to visit Saada Pind. The place is built on a Punjabi village theme. There are small huts - each belonging to a key member of an Indian village, a wrestling arena, a post office, fun & fair area, Mehandi/henna artist, an entertainment theatre styled hall with cots as seats & live folk dance performance, live food counters, a tractor, hand reader & so much else... The end of the tour leads to a buffet covered in the entry fee charges.

While the village experience was good, I was personally disappointed with the limited buffet service. The village experience provided live food services but some of it was chargeable separately. Hence, I felt I paid a huge amount for limited complimentary services. However, they have done a good job in showcasing a rural Punjabi household & one can spend a good time when visiting with large groups. There are plenty of photo opportunities as well.

Kesar Da Dhaba was a highly recommended restaurant to us by many. Apart from that, you can also check out the War Museum near the Attari border & visit the beautiful Durgiana Temple. Unfortunately, we couldn't visit them. But I do want to list it down here for you to capture it in your itinerary. If you do visit it, share your experience with me here :)

Someone had said to me Amritsar is their favourite city in India & I now understand why. It is rich in history, a foodie's paradise & a shopper's delight! For me, it was a perfect place to unwind after a busy year.